Elaphiti Islands Guide: Koločep, Lopud & Šipan from Dubrovnik.

The Elaphiti Islands sit between five and eleven nautical miles north-west of Dubrovnik. Of the thirteen islands and islets in the group, only three are inhabited: Koločep, Lopud and Šipan. All three are car-free, criss-crossed with old stone paths and quiet enough that a single fish-grill counts as a busy night out. They are, in our completely unbiased opinion, the best half-day from Dubrovnik you can spend on a boat.

This guide is written from the wheelhouse. We have been running the Elaphiti route since 1997. Below is the order we recommend, the swim stops we use, and a handful of things most guidebooks miss.

1. Koločep, the closest island and the Blue Cave

Koločep is the first island you reach out of Dubrovnik. Twenty minutes on a fast boat, the southernmost inhabited island in Croatia. There are two villages, no cars, and a small population that swells in summer with day-trippers.

The headline stop here is the Blue Cave, a sea-level cave on the western side of the island where sunlight enters under the water and turns the interior an electric, ghostly blue. It is at its best between roughly 10:00 and 13:00, when the sun is high enough to push light through the entrance.

Practical notes from the wheelhouse:

• Anchor outside the cave, not inside. Boats over a certain size cannot enter at all.
• Bring goggles. Most of the magic is below the surface.
• If the sea is choppy or there is a north wind, the cave gets too rough to swim safely. We will switch the order of the day and come back later. Listen to your skipper.

2. Lopud, Šunj Bay and a long lunch

Lopud is the middle island and our favourite for the lunch stop. The main village runs along a single, long palm-lined promenade with stone houses, ferns, an old monastery, a couple of churches and a handful of restaurants. You disembark, you walk fifteen minutes across the island, and you arrive at Šunj Bay.

Šunj is the only proper sand beach in the Dubrovnik area. Soft sand, shallow turquoise water, two beach tavernas. The water shelves so gently you can walk out fifty metres and still be at chest height. If you have small children, this is where the day belongs.

"We always tell guests: have lunch in Šunj, not in Lopud village. The food is better, the view is better, and the swim after is unmatched."

Tips for Lopud

• The walk from the harbour to Šunj is about 15–20 minutes. It is gentle but exposed in midday sun. Wear sandals you can walk in.
• If you cannot face the walk, there is a small electric tuk-tuk service in summer.
• Book your taverna lunch in advance in July and August. We will do it from the boat if you want.

3. Šipan, the biggest, the quietest, the coves

Šipan is the largest of the Elaphitis and the least visited. Two villages, a vineyard or two, a handful of summer houses owned by the old Ragusan families, and a coastline of small, secluded coves. This is where we go in the afternoon to escape any crowds Koločep and Lopud might have collected.

Our preferred stops, depending on wind and where everyone else is:

• Sutmiholjska Bay, on the south-east side, sheltered, with a tiny pebble beach and a single seasonal cafe.
• Pakljena, deeper water, an old shipyard, often nobody else.
• Donje &Cccaron;elo, the easier one, a small village with a stone-paved waterfront, perfect for a quiet coffee.

When to go

The Elaphitis are at their best from late May to early October. June and September are perfect: the sea is warm, the days are long, and the crowds are manageable. July and August are hot and busy but still rewarding if you start early and stay late.

Mid-October to April is technically possible, but the swim stops lose their point and most island restaurants close. If you are in Dubrovnik in winter, save the islands for another trip.

How to do this trip

You can do the Elaphiti route by public ferry, but the schedules constrain you (one ferry in, one out, fixed times, no Blue Cave). Most people do it by private boat. A half-day private tour gives you the route above in about four hours and is the best balance of speed and time on the islands.

If you want longer, a full-day tour adds a third island, a longer lunch and a second swim. We can also tailor the order if you want sunset at Lopud or a champagne stop on the way back.

Quick answers

How long does the Elaphiti tour take?

Our standard half-day tour is four hours door-to-door. A full-day adds a third swim stop and a longer lunch and runs around eight hours.

Is it suitable for children?

Yes, especially Šunj Bay on Lopud. The water is shallow and the sand is soft. We pre-stock the galley with kid-appropriate snacks and drinks if you tell us in advance.

Do I need a passport?

No. The Elaphitis are all Croatian and an ID card or your hotel room key is enough. Passports are only needed for Montenegro and Bosnia routes.

What about the Blue Cave on Biševo?

The famous Blue Cave on Biševo Island is a six-hour cruise away, near Split. The Elaphiti Blue Cave on Koločep is different and much closer. Both are blue, both are caves, both are worth seeing, just not in the same day from Dubrovnik.